thrilled to serve and guide you every step of the way. Since we tend to be lulled into laziness in the tropics we were quite content, really, to simply curl up on a poolside sun lounger with a cold San Miguel brew in hand, but our hosts had other plans for us! In just one day we were given dive instruction by the PADI-certified dive master, then plunged into the sea just metres offshore at a colourful site full of exotic marine life. Later, we hiked up the island's inland trail to the hilltop and were treated to an amazing panoramic view. Then, after returning to the villa and cooling off, it was time to climb aboard the Karen Joy for an excursion to a nearby fishing village. Still, we made it back to Ariara in time for a sunset cocktail and a three-course dinner featuring fresh lapu lapu (red grouper). There's no need to do all this in one day, of course. One could easily spend weeks, even months here and have a new adventure each day – or simply do nothing but lie back and contemplate the changing colours of the jewel-toned sea.

And the food, oh the food! Among the rich and varied things we sampled were wonderful, exotic fruits – some picked off wild trees on the island, giant lobster, imported beef steak barbecued to absolute perfection, pastas and salads made with organic cheeses, herbs and vegetables, fabulous desserts including orange and basil sorbet and the local rice and coconut bico treat. Being a remote island, getting fresh food in (aside from seafood, which fishermen bring directly to shore daily) is a big undertaking, and coordinating it all is a chef on the island and a Swiss chef based in Manila who operates her own organic dairy farm and expertly sources the finest imported foods and wines. Ariara was six years in the making by a very resourceful, creative and passionate team. With its potent combination of ground-breaking standards of service and a wild, largely undiscovered marine wonderland, we believe that it won't be long before Ariara is the place that others in the super-villa business will be scrambling to imitate.

ceiling tracing the story of the five Pandawas brothers from the Mahabharata (after which the estate is named), and into a huge living pavilion that must be bigger than many entire villas! We later read that this dramatic arrival has been designed to mirror the brothers’ journey through the mountains, leaving worldly desires behind in search of Lord Shiva. The setting is gorgeous, with a real sense of retreat from the hurly burly and immersion in nature’s bounty. There’s space in spades here, with beautiful gardens and lots of private corners for those who want to slip away from the other villa guests. Other than the fountains and constant hum of the cicadas and chattering staff, the only noise was the odd motorbike straining up the steep hill by the villa, emphasizing the delightful quiet the rest of the time. The swimming pool is enormous and there’s plenty space to stretch out, on the deck, or have a massage in the spa balé. Our favourite spot was the Buddy’s Bar balé which commands the highest point of the resort and looks out over emerald rice terraces edged with towering palms – a very special place visited by the famed herons from nearby Petulu village. We liked the double lounger in the bedroom – perfect for languishing with a good book and a lover. The large bed was comfortable but the bedding itself was disappointing. Having said that, other details were well thought out – the universal multi-point sockets fitted throughout the villa, for example, and the home entertainment system in each bedroom.

We found the design of the house to be utterly unique, quirky and cool. Whilst it feels very sociable, it also offers plenty of private spots that maximise the views. Photos, letters and prints bring out its fun personality whilst the elegant colonial furnishings, some of their colours

faded, sophisticate the property and give it a 1930's feel. We found the garden to be a delight, its meandering pathways through the mature tropical foliage managing to make the island feel larger than it is whilst hiding many secluded spots perfect for soaking up the views, enjoying the island's tranquillity or simply recording the stunning panoramas and gentle ambiance in paintings and books. Artists and writers will be particularly drawn to Taprobane; the American writer Paul Bowles wrote the Spider House here. The infinity pool is a great place to watch the fishermen as they take to the sea or return heavily laden with their catch, whilst the seemingly endless number of scenic dining locations makes the most of the island from sunrise to sunset. Families, groups or friends, honeymooners and decadent couples will adore Taprobane's peace and privacy and whilst older children will love its Adventure Island appeal, we think its suitability for younger kids is less so as they would need a lot of supervision. The sea crossing and number of steps on the island also might prove difficult for the elderly. The staff of seven includes a cook, a villa manager, three houseboys who have their own quarters and two security guards so guests are not only very well looked after but their privacy from the outside world is also guaranteed. Sunset drinks are served promptly on the verandah followed by meals that favour the fresh seafood of which Weligama is so renowned. Food is by a grocery system so meal choices should be discussed with the chef every morning so that the staff can do the shopping daily and keep an account of money spent. The staff will assist in organising transport and recommending sights for guests brave enough to leave the tranquillity of the island.