The quiet seaside village of Candidasa boasts a rich heritage close to many of Bali's most important historical landmarks, ancient kingdoms and palaces, making it an excellent base to explore the region. This beautiful, undeveloped area is set in the Island’s eastern regency of Karangasem, well away from the excesses of mainstream tourism, with Mt Agung, Bali’s most sacred and mystical volcano, providing a dramatic backdrop to the scene.

There is a charming collection of restaurants and simple souvenir shops in Candidasa, as well as a few basic mini-marts. Close by is the 700-year-old walled village of Tenganan, where the residents practise a time-honoured lifestyle based around ritual and ceremony. The fortress-like village has become a living museum, and many of the houses also function as shops and workshops where expert craftsmen and women perform their centuries’ old skills.

The beach at Candidasa is sandy and golden, albeit narrow due to erosion. There is however, a beautiful beach known as Pasir Putih five kilometres to the east and snorkelling and diving off Candidasa is good with some excellent sites close to the shore and accessible by local boat. Within a few kilometres are two of Bali’s most prestigious resorts, Alila Manggis and the world famous Amankila. Padang Bai Harbour, the stepping off point for Lombok, is a further nine kilometres around the bay, and here you will find the Blue Lagoon, another superb snorkelling and dive site.

Canggu has become the collective name for a number of villages (including Berawa, Tegal Gundul, Tiyingtukul, Pererenan, Nelayan and Babakan), which, until very recently, could still be described as a sleepy coastal locale. It's now one of Bali's coolest districts.

Here, amongst the rice fields which extend all the way down to the beach, you will not only find some of the most luxurious private residences on the island, but also a great selection of eclectic restaurants, cafes, bakeries, boutiques and beach bars – especially along Jalan Batu Bolong, which runs right down to the beach. Popular spots include Finns Beach Club, Old Mans, La Laguna, The Lawn and Ji @ Bale Sutra.

Canggu is also an area that most surfers will know about, with reef swells that are larger than those you will find further south in Kuta and Seminyak. Swimming isn’t advisable however as the rips can be dangerous, but there are plenty of other things to do from horseback riding to cooking classes. Finns Recreation Club (for which many holiday villas in the area include guest membership) offers social and leisure amenities, including Splash waterpark, Bounce trampoline centre, Strike bowling, a state-of-the art gym, a 25m swimming pool and a tennis and squash centre.

Along the coast to the north of Canggu is Pura Tanah Lot; a sea temple perched high on a craggy wave-lashed rock and probably the most photographed sight in Bali. Sophisticated Seminyak, a few kilometres south of Canggu, lays claim to the highest concentration of independent fine-dining restaurants on the island, including Sarong, La Lucciola and Ku Dé Ta, together with a wide choice of chic cocktail bars, exciting nightclubs, lavish spas and elegant boutiques.

Jimbaran lies on the western side of Bali’s narrow isthmus, a sweeping bay that curves for five kilometres from the southern side of the airport to the bushy headland that is the home of the Four Seasons Resort and the start of The Bukit peninsula.

In spite of the many five-star developments in the area, Jimbaran Beach remains unspoilt and tranquil, the pace is still unhurried, the atmosphere relaxed and the sand soft and golden. The entrance to the bay is blocked by an unbroken coral reef, so although the calm water is not suitable for surfing, it is a safe haven for swimming. During the daytime it attracts guests from the nearby resorts, together with the occasional windsurfer. In the late afternoons, Balinese families come down to the beach. Kids paddle in the shallows and build sandcastles that are more reminiscent of miniature Taj Mahals than of Norman fortresses. Ice cream pedlars cruise for custom on pushbikes, dogs gambol through the sand, young men play football with makeshift goalposts, and the delectable smell of grilled sweet corn blended with charcoal smoke emanates from food trolleys parked at the water’s edge.

The magnificent crescent bay is west facing, so at sunset the beach becomes the scene of a daily ritual as hundreds of visitors take their ringside seats at the plethora of seafood warungs; these simple beachside cafes run virtually the length of the bay and serve up the catch of the day.

The island of Nusa Lembongan lies 12 kilometres south east of Bali (only 18 kilometres from Bali’s international airport). The 25-minute boat ride across the Badung Strait from Sanur is a great way to seriously slow down: leaving the hustle and bustle of the mainland behind and stepping ashore at Mushroom Beach is akin to stepping back in time – many say several decades! Laid back and easy-going, Nusa Lembongan is blissfully traffic-free – few cars, no buses, mostly just scooters and bicycles.

The eight-square-kilometre tropical island is ringed with white-sand beaches, limestone bluffs and mangrove forests and fringed by a coral reef. It’s linked by a startlingly yellow suspension bridge (two-wheels or pedestrians only) to its tiny neighbour, Nusa Ceningan, beyond which is the third of this island sisterhood, the rugged Nusa Penida.

The island’s crystal-clear waters are visited seasonally (July-September) by Mola-Mola, the majestic oceanic sunfish which contribute to the island’s standing as a world-class dive destination. The shallow coral reefs attract snorkellers, while the more adventurous head for the surf breaks and cliff-jumping sites.

There’s much to charm on dry land too: clamber across limestone outcrops on delightful headland walks; visit a seaweed farm (perhaps followed by a seaweed spa session); cycle through Lembongan Village to the mangroves on the northern shore. Tourist activity is focused on Jungut Batu (the island’s second village) and Mushroom Bay, where the midday heat brings an influx of day-trippers from the Bali mainland. By 4pm the crowds have gone, and this beautiful beach of white sand becomes the preserve of lucky overnight residents, who have the run of barefoot beach bars, cafes and an increasing number of restaurants.

If Kuta is the energetic, crowded hub of Bali’s tourism, the historical and easy going village of Sanur is its sleepy antithesis, sitting on Bali’s south-east coast just a short distance from the capital Denpasar and 16 kilometres from the airport. Relaxed restaurants and bars line the road whilst a slew of resorts line the pretty beaches which are more protected than those on the west coast. They start from backpacking huts and progress to some of the original beach retreats, popular with celebrities of the '60s and '70s, which put Bali on the tourist map.

In common with many other tourist centres in Bali, Sanur has expanded, not always beautifully, and now boasts the 9-hole Grand Bali Beach Golf Course, a bowling centre and collection of spas and massage centres, supermarkets for provisioning, banks and ATMs, and a range of shops selling everything from simple postcards to sophisticated artwork. Bali’s famous silver, teak, paintings, masks and more are all available in Sanur, which remains a charming, low key, relaxed destination.

Thirteen kilometres east of Sanur, the area collectively known as Ketewel includes a string of traditional fishing villages - Pabean, Saba, Lebih, Maceti and Ketewel itself - running along the coast. The construction of Sunrise Road (also known as the Klungkung bypass) in 2004 meant that the windswept black sand beaches of this part of the Gianyar Regency suddenly became a lot more accessible. Bounded by the River Wos, terraced rice fields, tobacco plantations, papaya and banana groves, the area is blessed with spellbinding views extending across the ocean towards the beaches of Sanur and Nusa Dua, the islands of Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida, and the mountains of East Bali.

Ketewel village itself is the origin of the celebrated Legong Bidadari Dance, and the neighbouring village of Saba produced the finest Legong dancers on the island. The nearby beach of Pabean was once a small port through which oriental traders brought their products; at low tide you can still see the structure of the old harbour, and a Chinese cemetery is located close by. Balinese Hindu purification ceremonies are held beside the ocean at the sacred Pura Segara sea temple, and the offshore reef is renowned for its surf breaks. There are no Western-style restaurants in this area, but there are plenty of local warungs (eateries), while international restaurants galore can be found just down the road in Sanur.

North west of Bali’s international airport, coastal Seminyak is Bali’s established late-night party land, laying claim to the highest concentration of independent fine-dining restaurants and beach clubs on the island, including Ku Dé Ta, Potato Head, Cocoon, La Lucciola, Sarong, Métis and Sardine. Hip and happening Seminyak also boasts a plethora of chic cocktail bars, sumptuous spas and fashionable boutiques.

A world-class playground for the rich, the famous and the bon vivants, the vibrant nightlife and luxurious accommodation in Seminyak draws a sophisticated crowd of ‘beautiful people’, especially Europeans. Seminyak Beach is the place where local and expat communities gather every evening at sunset.

Seminyak is Bali’s have-it-all holiday destination for a relaxed beachside escape with easy access to the many tourist attractions around the island. Head south for Asia’s #1 water park, Waterbom, or hit the links at the scenic New Kuta Golf Club in the Bukit. North of Seminyak, enjoy the sporting facilities at Finns Recreation Club (for which many holiday villas in the area include guest membership), offering social and leisure amenities, including a state-of-the art gym, a 25m swimming pool and a tennis and squash centre. For horse lovers, three riding stables are located at nearby Canggu – Kuda P, Tarukan, and Bali Equestrian Centre.

A few kilometres to the north west of Canggu, a towering banyan—one of the ‘elders’ of the tree kingdom—heralds the turning to Seseh, a traditional beachside village approached via an avenue of coconut palms.

Seseh and the tiny neighbouring villages of Sogsogan and Cemagi still retain the customs and culture of old Bali. Here, you will see farmers in conical hats riding rusty old upright bicycles, as well as frequent, colourful processions to Seseh’s large beachside temple. There are no international restaurants here, but you might just see a barong (a high-spirited, benevolent beast representing the power of good; danced by two men inside an ornate costume) dancing on the street. The good news, for folks who want to immerse themselves in the customs and culture of old Bali, is that the villagers encourage and welcome congenial visitors. Although there are now many private rental villas in these three villages, they have seamlessly integrated without detracting from the simplicity and charm of the location. This is an ideal destination for those who want to get lost in the beauty of the countryside, and for those who want to engage with the local people and gain privileged insights into the Balinese Hindu lifestyle.

A little further up the coast is Tanah Lot, famous for its dramatic and venerated sea temple, which is perched on a craggy wave-lashed rock at the edge of the glistening black shoreline. It is probably the most photographed sight in Bali, especially in the late afternoon when its splendid profile is silhouetted against the setting sun. The Tanah Lot locale is also home to a number of private villas due to presence of the 18-hole, 72-par, championship-standard Nirwana Bali Golf Club, which is frequently voted the number one golf course in Asia. This is, however, still a far-flung area with few facilities other than the souvenir stalls and simple eateries within the temple grounds, and three international restaurants within Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort.

Tabanan has a 30-kilometre-long coastline, which presents isolated coves and rocky outcrops and is famous for its surf beaches, including Medewi and Balian, offering the longest point breaks in Bali. (The drawbacks if you’re not a surfer are the sometimes-three-metre-high waves and the undertows). The beaches are sloping and lovely to walk along; covered with black sand which is regarded for its curative, therapeutic properties and especially helpful for arthritis.

The Regency is known as Bali’s ‘rice bowl’ – the most agriculturally productive region on the island, with rice fields stretching from the coast to as high as 700 metres above sea level, where the terraces are reminiscent of amphitheatres. Besides rice, there are crops of coconuts, coffee, cacao, spices and tropical fruits. This area is also home to Mount Batukau (2276m), the higher slopes of which are alpine, with mountain streams, ferns, wildflowers, creepers and orchids, as well as the rare, black, leaf-eating monkey, the kijang (small forest deer), large butterflies and moths, flying lizards, the landak (porcupine) and the lubak (mongoose). It is also a bird watchers’ paradise, habitat of the Bali black eagle.

There are no western-style shops or bars in this area, and restaurants serving international cuisine are few and far between, mainly adjoined to the region’s limited number of small and remote hotels.

The relatively unknown area around the village of Tanjung on the north-west coast of Lombok is gradually evolving into the island’s main villa location, with new properties now springing up (around Sira Beach in particular), albeit slowly. Tanjung itself is an attractive market village with stalls overflowing with indigenous produce, including blocks of locally harvested tobacco.

Located right beside Sira Beach is the Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club, a scenic 18-hole championship course, which challenges golfers of all levels and is open to the public. The Oberoi Lombok Hotel and Hotel Tugu Lombok (an atmospheric, antique chic hotel with a restaurant and bar open to outside guests) are perhaps Tanjung’s best known residents.

The tiny port of Bangsal (4km) is a stepping off point for the Gilis whilst Teluk Nara (6km) is where the high speed ferries from Bali arrive. Senggigi, 23 kilometres south, is the most developed tourist area on Lombok (one of the few spots on the main island with any nightlife), yet still pretty quiet and laid-back. Finally, the Rinjani National Park (59km) is full of untamed jungle, wildlife, waterfalls and a volcanic peak just waiting to be scaled.

The Bukit (which means 'hill' in Indonesian) is a 140-square-kilometre rugged limestone peninsula that dangles like a pendant upon a chain at the southern tip of Bali. Until recently, this windswept outcrop - revered by the Balinese who have built a series of temples around its perimeter, including the spectacular Pura Luhur Uluwatu - was home solely to seaweed farmers, fisherman and die-hard surfers. In recent years, however, it has reinvented itself to become the most upmarket destination on the island.

The Bukit now boasts some of Bali’s most opulent destination villas, glamorous private estates, internationally-branded boutique hotels, and ‘One of Asia's 5 Best Golf Courses’ according to Fortune Magazine, making it the area of choice for discerning travellers and residents. Most development has taken place along the isthmus connecting The Bukit to the rest of Bali, with the beautiful sunsets and sandy beaches of Jimbaran to the west and Benoa Harbour to the east. Further along the coast to the east, are a string of resorts and hotels set along the pretty swimming beaches of Nusa Dua.

Despite recent development, The Bukit remains sparsely populated and has retained a desolate beauty. Its turquoise waters are the playground of migrating whales, and when the waves are calm and the tide is full, turtles and dugongs can be seen swimming close to the shore. The rocky landscape is dotted with wild flowers, manioc, prickly pear cactus, scarlet flowering flamboyants and fascinating kapok trees. The Bukit is also home to some of the most idyllic beaches in Bali; hidden sandy coves – a dream for both surfers and non-surfers alike (although not always safe for swimming). Even in the rainy season The Bukit is a reliable sun-trap.

Ubud is Bali’s cultural hub, a royal village situated at the confluence of two rivers on the southern edge of the Balinese heartland. A haven for local and foreign artists since the 1930s, it is now a conglomeration of villages and the island’s centre for fine arts and cultural performances, attracting art collectors, connoisseurs, writers, mystics, and people who are actively involved in art, anthropology, music, dance, architecture, environmentalism and alternative healing.

Ubud is the seat of the Sukawati Royal Family; the palace is centrally located and open to the public, while in the surrounding villages visitors can watch the island’s most accomplished painters, stonemasons, woodcarvers, mask makers and silversmiths at work. As well as numerous shops, galleries, studios and a market, Ubud even has its own sacred monkey forest. Restaurants are plentiful, but nightlife is limited with the majority of places closing around midnight.

Ubud is the perfect area to use as a base when visiting Bali, the town is surrounded by most of the attributes that entice people to this exceptionally beautiful island – emerald rice terraces, traditional art and craft communities, ancient temples, palaces, and breathtaking river gorges. In fact, the Sayan Ridge is home to some of the best hotels in the world. Ubud’s central location makes it very easy to get to the mountains and all of the major tourist attractions. It also has a cooler, fresher and generally more pleasant climate than the southern coastal regions.

Located between Seminyak and Canggu, the area known as Kerobokan, which includes Umalas village and Banjar Semer, is conveniently close to Seminyak’s trendy restaurants and designer boutiques, yet is promoted as the peaceful option because these flat plains still encompass acres of rice fields and distant mountain views.

Development, however, is happening fast, and this group of rural villages is now home to numerous rental villas and private residences, with plenty of cheap ‘n cheerful Western-style cafes cropping up in the most unexpected of places, offering surprisingly good food and home/villa delivery services. Although there are very few shops as yet, there are a number of local supermarkets, bakeries, garden centres, simple spas and fitness centres, as well as three riding stables at nearby Canggu – Kuda P, Tarukan, and Bali Equestrian Centre. Visitors will also find ATM machines and reliable taxi services. The main road leading north of Seminyak to Kerobokan is lined with furniture stores and workshops offering “antiques made to order”.

The historic city of Galle is one of the island’s biggest attractions; as once the most important port on the island, Galle’s natural harbour attracted seafaring traders long before the arrival of the fort-building European colonialists who were to turn it into a flourishing market town. Galle’s new town is a hive of activity where noisy traffic-filled roads overflow with frantic shoppers, and hawkers of luscious fruit, fish and vegetables loudly promote their wares. The newly created promenade beside the sea is a picturesque place to walk and contemplate the oceanic scene as fishermen, yachts and navy boats come and go from the harbour.

In stark contrast to the town of Galle, the sleepy, historic fort offers serenity and calm. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its seventeenth century ramparts, now retired, are filled with an evocative collection of period properties, intimate boutiques, interesting museums and tiny cafes whilst its nostalgic ambiance and cosmopolitan vibe further highlight its charm. The international cricket stadium, located between the old and new towns, is famed for having one of the most picturesque backdrops in the world. There’s a railway station plus are plenty of banks, ATMs, pharmacies, shops, restaurants, money changing facilities and supermarkets in town.

With a long stretch of golden beach, peaceful inland lagoon, fascinating folk museum and famous airfield, Habaraduwa-Koggala is a great little destination 12km south east of Galle. The golden sands of the three-kilometre beach stretch from Habaraduwa – famed for its turtle-hatchery – to beyond Koggala, a Free Trade Zone further east, where big hotels stand shoulder to shoulder along the sand.
Habaraduwa’s palm-fringed beach is one of the widest and prettiest in the region, yet as you wander further east towards Koggala the beach narrows and it’s here you’ll see stilt fishermen at work. Inland is Koggala Lake, a meandering island-sprinkled lagoon which is a haven for wildlife lovers. Fishermen traverse the quiet depths leaving ripples in their wake as they hunt for fish, crabs and prawns. Spice islands and mystical temples also scatter the lake, and an early morning or evening punt atop the water in a traditional fishing catamaran is the best way to appreciate this quietly spoken scene.
Madul Doova, one of the islands in the lake, was the subject of a book written by the late Martin Wickramasinghe, a lauded local author. His home in Koggala is now a folk museum that charts the fascinating story of his life and times. Koggala Lake is also the landing strip for domestic Air Taxis, which reduce journey time to the south coast from Colombo's airport to just 40 minutes. Local restaurants centre on the beach hotels, and ATMs line the main road between Habaraduwa and Koggala.

Tangalle is a sleepy fishing port in the island’s deep south where villagers go about their daily chores with an unhurried charm, stopping frequently to chat with relatives and friends. Its main attraction are the many beaches that surround the town to the east and west – some of the island’s most picturesque, tranquil and unspoilt. Reached along narrow tracks from the main road and hidden by rocky headlands which ensure that they remain undiscovered, many of these beaches, such as Seenimodera, Mawella and Nilwala, are flanked by beautiful patches of jungle and overhanging palms. Coves, rocky outcrops and bursting blowholes dramatise them whilst the rolling surf of the deep blue ocean provides an endless melody to accompany the picture-postcard scene. Inland from Tangalle, the scene is very rural; while the beaches are scattered with colourful fishing catamarans, the plains inland are carpeted with vast paddy fields where farmers are hard at work tending to their golden crops. Only lush jungle, palm tree islands, lotus-filled lakes and a few rocky outcrops vary the landscape, whilst breathtaking cave temples such as Mulkirigala are hidden within their midst. Tangalle has a supermarket, a handful of banks and a fresh produce market whilst eating out is a low-key affair; the region’s delectable ocean cuisine is typically enjoyed in a rustic restaurant overlooking the beach.