We really liked Craig Appin. The rooms are all very comfortable and the four-poster beds in the two front rooms certainly look very grand. Although most of the furnishings are new, their style is redolent of the past. Bedrooms 4 and 5 are situated closest to the kitchen so in the

morning, the noise of the staff preparing breakfast can sometimes be heard. Bedrooms 2 and 3 share a bathroom (you need to walk through bedroom 2 to reach it) although there is a guest WC along the corridor that occupants of bedroom 3 can use during the night. Having two living rooms was handy, so everyone can find their own space.

We found the staff to be efficient, and meals were always served promptly, however only the chef spoke an acceptable level of English. Siri, the bungalow manager, drops by daily and is available at all times by phone, so it's better to communicate any complicated requests to him, and he'll relay the information to the staff. Lunches and dinners tend to be quite formal three-course affairs (pick from a limited set menu or let Siri know if there's anything you would particularly like), featuring British style dishes and Sri Lankan cuisine. We preferred the local dishes, and particularly enjoyed the Sri Lankan breakfast curry spread.

The winding road leading up to Dick Oya Bungalow promises something special at the top, and it doesn't disappoint. From its glorious hilltop location you can eye 360-degree views and revel in four acres of private gardens.
As soon as you arrive at the bungalow, you're transported

back in time. Although the bathrooms are quite basic, the rest of the house lives up to its promise of twenty-first century comforts and is wonderfully cosy. There are two generously sized living rooms, and each of the bedrooms come with sitting areas too meaning that there's plenty of private space to hide away.

The staff at the bungalow carry out their roles efficiently, if a little seriously, but this formality provides yet more character to a stay here. The dining room is elegant and meals are a formal affair – multiple courses for lunch and dinner are priced per person, and although they list a small selection of western and Sri Lankan options, efforts are made, where possible, to accommodate any request. The Sri Lankan dishes were our favourite, and were perhaps more in keeping with the chef's abilities than the western dishes. Siri, the friendly off-site manager drops by daily to visit guests and assist with anything they need.

It's always a joy to stay in such evocative surroundings and take a trip back in time. Strathdon Bungalow manages to combine the sensitivities of yesteryear – both in terms of ambiance and hospitality – with today's essential comforts and modernities. The bungalow dates back over a

century, however the current management performed the latest refurb back in 2010 so plush sofas, thick duvets, dozens of cushions and bedspreads all nestle nicely into a setting reminiscent of days gone by. The caretaker of the bungalow has worked on the estate since 1983 so if you need to know something about the house, or indeed the estate, he's your man and more than happy to tell a tale or two! He's also incredibly courteous and did all he could to make us feel at home. Since he's also the chef (his curries are absolutely delicious), he loves nothing more than seeing his guests' plates empty.

The bungalow has an unusual layout. Most of the bedrooms and living rooms lead off a central passageway (some with windows into it) and the dining room tucked to the back of the house is not particularly atmospheric as it feels a little out of the way (as does bedroom 2, the smaller of the two triples). You may find it nicer to either sit out on the front veranda to eat (weather permitting), which is a wonderful place for breakfast, or ask for the tables to be set up in the sociable hallway, as this setting feels much more convivial. The manager of Strathdon Bungalow, Siri, also manages two neighbouring sister-properties and he pops in to visit guests regularly and can be called upon anytime. He's a friendly character and a wealth of knowledge on the local area.