I think we’ve found the best villa in Bali – the real Bali! Villa Tangguntiti is so far removed from the concrete-carpeted glitz of the south – physically and spiritually – you could easily be in another century. The villa – an inadequate singular noun for this collection of antique buildings – is gorgeous. We loved our master bedroom, with four-poster bed positioned between the joglo columns facing a wall of windows swathed in white silk opening onto the terrace. And our bathroom (bigger than many villa bedrooms) was such an indulgence, with a granite bath reached by a pontoon across a fishpond! There’s plenty to do in the area – wholesome activities include walks, treks, cycle rides through the rice fields, river and deep-sea fishing as well as trips to the black-sand surfing beaches. Our trip coincided with a significant temple ceremony in the village, and we were so lucky to witness a wonderful procession right outside the villa with Abdi, the butler, on hand to explain what was happening. Hats off to the big-hearted staff; nothing was too much trouble, and they were completely unfazed by finding a non-meat-eater in their midst, seamlessly changing tack mid-course without batting an eyelid! Every meal was a gourmet experience… we have rarely eaten better in Bali. That’s thanks to Manuel, the accomplished French villa manager whose background in hospitality and high-end F&B shows in all the details. Though we were only one couple in a five-bedroom villa, the layout was such that we were able to enjoy the spaciousness without it feeling empty. It’s such a romantic place it may even appeal to a couple seeing away-from-it-all solitude. And yet with so much to do in the area, families with active kids can be kept as busy as they want, and the villa has its own open-topped land-cruiser for exploring. But it’s not the place for anyone seeking nightlife, shops and restaurants. This is one villa we would be thrilled to return to; but that means we first have to leave – and that might be difficult!