Pandawas Villas

Ubud is Bali’s cultural hub, a royal village situated at the confluence of two rivers in the Balinese heartland. A haven for local and foreign artists since the 1930s, it is now a conglomeration of villages and the island’s centre for fine arts and cultural performances, attracting art collectors, connoisseurs, writers, mystics, and people who are actively involved in art, anthropology, music, dance, architecture, environmentalism and alternative healing.
Ubud is the seat of the Sukawati Royal Family. The palace is centrally located and open to the public, while in the surrounding villages you can watch the island’s most accomplished painters, stonemasons, woodcarvers, mask makers and silversmiths at work. Besides numerous shops, galleries, studios and a market, Ubud even has its own sacred monkey forest. Restaurants are plentiful, but nightlife is limited with the majority of places closing around midnight.
Ubud is the perfect area to use as a base when visiting Bali. The town claims most of the attributes that entice people to this exceptionally beautiful island – glistening rice terraces, traditional art and craft communities, ancient temples, palaces, and breathtaking river gorges. In fact, the Sayan Ridge is home to some of the best hotels and luxury residences in the world. Ubud’s central location makes it very easy to get to the mountains and all of the major tourist attractions. It also has a cooler, fresher and generally more pleasant climate than the southern coastal regions.
It was Bali’s cooler season when we stayed, so we took a light wrap to take the edge off the evening chill, and used it as an excuse to enjoy the comfort of the coal-effect fire. The housekeepers cooked up a creditable pasta dish for dinner, and served a delicious breakfast in a dining area with the most stylish chairs.
This truly is a place to retreat to when you want a break from the hurley burley of corporate life. Though we were only two people, we didn’t feel out of place; it still works as a couple’s retreat, which is unusual in a four-bedroom villa. So we can imagine this working well as an artist’s or writer’s getaway, suiting couples kindling sparks of romance, and also proving popular with families. The steep steps to the octagonal bedroom (and the lack of an ensuite bathroom) may put off older family members, but will provide a sense of adventure to teens, as will the Bamboo House in a separate part of the garden. Because of the dramatic and unguarded drop-off to the Ayung river valley, we would counsel caution in bringing young children unless you’re prepared to watch them carefully (and many of the artefacts are within easy reach of toddlers’ hands). Having said that, the guests before us brought two kids under the age of four and they all loved the place.
The staff (super friendly) were always at hand when we needed something, yet never intrusive on our space. Meals were to die for (cost of provisions plus 20%), making it even less tempting to leave the house. When we were up for exploring, bicycles were quickly organised and we either found ourselves in town checking out the local markets and shops or off into the hills to explore local temples and villages. The cooler air also made exploring the outside world more comfortable than Bali’s beachside areas.
Villa Sancita’s design is definitely what sold the villa to us as it really makes use of space and although the modern décor and furnishings may not be particularly edgy or character driven (though the beds were very comfy), the natural surroundings provide a great balance and a breathtaking environment for relaxing.
With the pool and decking at quite a height, we would suggest families with older kids only, though a babysitter is available to hire for guests with toddlers.
We very much enjoyed a walking trip arranged by Dewa, the villa manager. It was about 2.5 hours through the village rice fields and surroundings, and included a visit to a temple and to a Balinese family compound where we were served coffee and cakes. Some of the terrain was a bit tricky, with steep slopes and streams to cross, but it was wonderful to be so close to the land. There is a fee for these walking trips, which are organised to raise money for needy people in the village. We also tried the cross-country walk into Ubud, which was lovely; but walking around Ubud itself was hectic because of the heavy traffic and dreadful sidewalks.
Villa Sebali is full of charm and feels very much like the private home it is. We found the owners’ Information for Guests booklet very helpful. The living and dining spaces are comfortable and relaxed with tropical gardens framing the view to rice fields or the rainforest. A clipped grass courtyard leads to the swimming pool which is especially delightful in the morning light. We appreciated the pool pavilion, or balé, in the afternoon where we curled up with books and sipped cool fruit juice prepared by the quiet, competent staff.
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